This is an embroidery topic, not really digitizing.
I just finished putting logos on 14 Cool-Dri shirts. I floated them on no-show polymesh. The job got ten times easier when I created a file to mark the center of the embroidery field. (The center of the hoop is not always the center of the embroidery field, and the markings on the hoop don’t always indicate the center. I know this is true for the Brother PE 770.)
- Print a template of the logo and cut it out in a square shape. Make sure your printout shows the center lines or grid.
- Fold the logo in half both directions. Do this step very accurately as it will affect everything from this point on.
- Use double-stick tape to securely attach the template to the shirt. This is another point at which you need to be accurate.
- Hoop the polymesh. I use two layers, one at a 45° angle to the other.
- Stitch the cross-hairs on the stabilizer. I’ll float a layer of tear away under the hoop when I do the shirt, but I don’t use it at this point.
- Remove the hoop from the machine, but don’t remove the stabilizer from the hoop.
- Spray the hoop lightly with temporary adhesive. This is optional. I don’t always use it but I was afraid to try to pin the Cool-Dri material.
- Being careful not to shift the template, fold the fabric and template in half along the vertical crease you made earlier. The template will be inside the fold. You may be able to do this through the neck of the shirt, or you may need to turn it inside out.
- Line the crease up with the stitched lines on the stabilizer.
- My shirts were thin enough that I could also feel and see the horizontal crease to find the center.
- If you are working with something heavier, you can push a pin through the center mark on the template before you fold it and use the pin to find the center.Remove the pin before you start stitching.
- If your fabric is very thick, you may need to offset the crease just slightly to allow for the width of the fold.
- Smooth the fabric onto the stabilizer. Pin if desired.
- Put the hoop back on the machine. Check the placement and alignment with the template still attached to the fabric. If everything looks good, remove the template.
- Load your design and stitch away.
This is not a basting file, although the stitches are a bit longer than normal. You will not be happy if you stitch this on the shirt instead of the stabilizer.
I added the cross-hairs to my design as the first step, which would have been fine except that my machine won’t move the needle to check the placement after the design has started stitching. I had to back up to the first step. On a couple of the shirts, I forgot to advance past the cross-hairs to the design before I started stitching on the shirt. Since the stitch was exposed in the logo I was doing, I had to spend a little time with my seam ripper.
You are welcome to use these files to make objects for personal use or for sale. You may not resell or distribute the embroidery files. Be sure to test first.
Cross-hairs 4×4 – use to mark your stabilizer for easier alignment when floating. This is not a basting stitch.
Satin Border Hearts – The blue hearts and green hearts are the same size. The blue ones have a loop so you can hang something in them. The three hearts are just a bit too big to hang inside each other with jump rings. The white ones will fit in the blue ones, but they touch at the bottom so you don’t get the nice movement I was hoping for. The blue and green ones will fit in the red one but … you get the picture.
When you remove the WSS, only wet the earrings enough to dissolve the WSS, but not to remove it completely. The residual WSS will stiffen the earrings. Save your scraps. If your earrings aren’t stiff enough, you can dissolve the scraps in water to make a stiffening liquid.
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